Comments on: The Floor – Warre Hive Construction Guide http://thebeespace.net/2008/09/22/the-floor-warre-hive-construction-guide/ Smart, Simple & Sustainable Beekeeping Fri, 30 Jul 2010 03:52:21 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.com/ By: Denise Chevalier http://thebeespace.net/2008/09/22/the-floor-warre-hive-construction-guide/#comment-1992 Denise Chevalier Tue, 19 Jan 2010 16:03:44 +0000 http://thebeespace.wordpress.com/?p=635#comment-1992 A small group of us are building 4 hives and it's going very well, thanks for the plans. About the entrance -- the chisel cut is 90 degrees on our floors, how did you get the angle at 45 degrees? It's a nice detail. Did you rasp it away to 45 after the initial wood removal? Exact description would be appreciated! (Even though it doesn't matter to the bees...) Also, do we need a queen excluder? And are there construction plans for the bee feeder? thanks! A small group of us are building 4 hives and it’s going very well, thanks for the plans. About the entrance — the chisel cut is 90 degrees on our floors, how did you get the angle at 45 degrees? It’s a nice detail. Did you rasp it away to 45 after the initial wood removal? Exact description would be appreciated! (Even though it doesn’t matter to the bees…)

Also, do we need a queen excluder? And are there construction plans for the bee feeder? thanks!

]]> By: chris http://thebeespace.net/2008/09/22/the-floor-warre-hive-construction-guide/#comment-1374 chris Sun, 13 Sep 2009 19:30:11 +0000 http://thebeespace.wordpress.com/?p=635#comment-1374 so will the bees build their comb down on to the bottom board? so will the bees build their comb down on to the bottom board?

]]> By: Logan MacGregor http://thebeespace.net/2008/09/22/the-floor-warre-hive-construction-guide/#comment-1263 Logan MacGregor Sun, 26 Jul 2009 01:39:13 +0000 http://thebeespace.wordpress.com/?p=635#comment-1263 It doesn't matter. I built two Warre's like you mentioned, and both refused to build down when I added a new box underneath according to the Warre method. I even baited one by bringing a comb down and they still wouldn't go. My Kenyan Top Bar Hive is performing beautifully, so I'm sticking with Langstroths and horizontal top bar hives. Sorry, but in my experience Warre isn't worth the effort. I'll be giving away my Warre boxes with the observation windows. Nice site, I hope others have better luck but I don't want to do Warre boxes any more. It doesn’t matter. I built two Warre’s like you mentioned, and both refused to build down when I added a new box underneath according to the Warre method. I even baited one by bringing a comb down and they still wouldn’t go. My Kenyan Top Bar Hive is performing beautifully, so I’m sticking with Langstroths and horizontal top bar hives. Sorry, but in my experience Warre isn’t worth the effort. I’ll be giving away my Warre boxes with the observation windows. Nice site, I hope others have better luck but I don’t want to do Warre boxes any more.

]]> By: Nick http://thebeespace.net/2008/09/22/the-floor-warre-hive-construction-guide/#comment-948 Nick Fri, 29 May 2009 04:10:33 +0000 http://thebeespace.wordpress.com/?p=635#comment-948 <strong>Logan</strong> - Actually, the legs on the beehive are not that tall...in fact they are the exact height Emile Warre recommends on page 46 of "Beekeeping for All" Concrete blocks can transfer moisture to your beehive, so I don't like to use them that much. They do provide a very solid base though. Logan – Actually, the legs on the beehive are not that tall…in fact they are the exact height Emile Warre recommends on page 46 of “Beekeeping for All” Concrete blocks can transfer moisture to your beehive, so I don’t like to use them that much. They do provide a very solid base though.

]]> By: Logan MacGregor http://thebeespace.net/2008/09/22/the-floor-warre-hive-construction-guide/#comment-834 Logan MacGregor Tue, 12 May 2009 00:53:59 +0000 http://thebeespace.wordpress.com/?p=635#comment-834 The legs are sure fancy, but I just use concrete blocks for my hives. This means no wood-t0-ground contact so I don't have to deal with rot. Also, my hives get closer to the ground. According to Warre himself (and I have witnessed this myself), bees laden with pollen or honey may land on the ground and need to get back up because the weight of their load. The taller the floor from the ground, the harder this is for the bees. Besides, you can usually find some concrete blocks or bricks laying around somewhere and they are easy to level -- just dig the dirt around the bricks until you get it the way you want. Put the floor (sans feet) on the bricks or blocks and you are good to go. The legs are sure fancy, but I just use concrete blocks for my hives. This means no wood-t0-ground contact so I don’t have to deal with rot. Also, my hives get closer to the ground. According to Warre himself (and I have witnessed this myself), bees laden with pollen or honey may land on the ground and need to get back up because the weight of their load. The taller the floor from the ground, the harder this is for the bees. Besides, you can usually find some concrete blocks or bricks laying around somewhere and they are easy to level — just dig the dirt around the bricks until you get it the way you want. Put the floor (sans feet) on the bricks or blocks and you are good to go.

]]> By: Nick http://thebeespace.net/2008/09/22/the-floor-warre-hive-construction-guide/#comment-495 Nick Wed, 25 Feb 2009 02:07:38 +0000 http://thebeespace.wordpress.com/?p=635#comment-495 <strong>john</strong> - You can add another inch or two if you want to. I don't usually make any changes to the landing board. Just more adds more work. john – You can add another inch or two if you want to. I don’t usually make any changes to the landing board. Just more adds more work.

]]> By: john http://thebeespace.net/2008/09/22/the-floor-warre-hive-construction-guide/#comment-479 john Fri, 20 Feb 2009 21:25:33 +0000 http://thebeespace.wordpress.com/?p=635#comment-479 thanks for the answer nick i can work abit of a slope in now, another question is , can you or would it be adviseable to make the landing board a little bit wider for the bees to land on? saving afew misses. thanks for the answer nick i can work
abit of a slope in now, another question is , can you or would it be adviseable to make the landing board a little bit wider for the bees to land on? saving afew misses.

]]> By: Nick http://thebeespace.net/2008/09/22/the-floor-warre-hive-construction-guide/#comment-464 Nick Wed, 18 Feb 2009 22:58:47 +0000 http://thebeespace.wordpress.com/?p=635#comment-464 <strong>john</strong> - Good question! I don't cut my hive entrances to an exact angle, but my average is about 45 degrees. Bees can crawl up a 90 degree angle, so you can do away with the chiseling altogether if you want. john – Good question! I don’t cut my hive entrances to an exact angle, but my average is about 45 degrees.

Bees can crawl up a 90 degree angle, so you can do away with the chiseling altogether if you want.

]]> By: john http://thebeespace.net/2008/09/22/the-floor-warre-hive-construction-guide/#comment-462 john Wed, 18 Feb 2009 17:53:58 +0000 http://thebeespace.wordpress.com/?p=635#comment-462 What is the angle of the hive entrance? What is the angle of the hive entrance?

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