Comments on: Warre Hive Components

By: Nick

Nick — Fri, 13 Jan 2012 17:05:48 +0000

Hi Erez, I can’t say that I know much about that, I read about a simple technique where someone placed a crumpled towel over the top bars. The bees cover it with propolis then the towel is frozen. The propolis will crumble off of the frozen towel. I’ve never tried it so not sure if it would work.

By: Erez

Erez — Fri, 13 Jan 2012 13:05:15 +0000

What suggestions do you have to harvest propolis?

By: Nick

Nick — Fri, 13 Jan 2012 05:50:05 +0000

Hi Erez, the proper bee space between 2 planes (comb to comb or comb to wall) is around 3/8″ or 7.5mm. In the bee world 1/8″ is nothing so 3/8″ to 1/2″ is fine.

By: Erez

Erez — Thu, 12 Jan 2012 21:22:59 +0000

How much space is enough? I’ve read 3/8″ some 1/2″. . .

By: Nick

Nick — Thu, 12 Jan 2012 20:29:27 +0000

Hi Erez. sure you can build half frames to make them removable. You will still get burr comb connecting the frames but the half frames with a wax starter strip will help keep the comb straight.

I think 3/4 in top bars will be too thin. You need to give the bees enough room to build comb as well as leave a bee space between frames. I’ve never tried adding an extra frame like that but I’m guessing they won’t have enough room to build and you’ll end up with comb where it’s not supposed to be. Remember bee’s don’t follow the rules so they will build comb as they see fit and not necessarily how you would like them too. Oh and bees don’t create cell size based on how much room they have, they make them as big as they need them (anywhere from 4.6mm to 5.1mm). With natural comb there is not a way to influence cell size. These conversations are usually associated with foundation.

Hope that helps!

By: Erez

Erez — Wed, 11 Jan 2012 18:32:40 +0000

Hey Nick! I have a couple questions.
1. FL law requires that the slats/frames not be nailed for inspection purposes, and I was wondering: for that purpose, can I build the top bars with only 3 sides (no bottom) so they can slide in and out for inspection purpose and the combs not be affected?

2. What difference is it if the top bars are 3/4″ wide verses 1″ wide? I did my layout and with 3/4″ wide frames, I would be able to have 10 frames, but will I have more wax, less honey per frame, and poor production? From my understanding, the smaller the cells, the less opportunity for disease to creep in. Is this correct or is this a non-issue? The hive will have more 1 more frame for a comb, but what effect would this be on the bees, honey, wax, and queen?

Thank you!
Erez

By: Charmglow Grills

Charmglow Grills — Thu, 23 Jun 2011 16:35:39 +0000

Just to add to Nicks response, there is a “top” to the quilt but it is actually incorporated into the roof, not the quilt box. Check the page where Nick shows you how to build the roof and you will see what I’m talking about…

By: David Blyth

David Blyth — Sat, 11 Dec 2010 23:48:46 +0000

The Quilt Box has a fabric top not a wood top the, quilt box is filled with saw dust as insulating but allows the hive to ventilate and the bees to keep warm

By: William

William — Sat, 11 Dec 2010 21:06:38 +0000

Hello my name is William and I am interested in building a warre- hive, I have a langstroth hive and want to try something new, plus I like the naturalness of the warre- hive. but I do have a question though. I don’t understand how the roof sits on the quilt box, all of the plans I’ve seen shows the roof having a solid board running on the inside of it even with the vents. So does the solid board sit on top of the quilt box, I hope I’m making since with this, how do the bees get ventilation if the roof has a solid piece of wood on it? any advice would be greatly appreciated. Sorry again if I am confusing you.